DAY Three of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week had it’s ups and downs but it definitely finished on a high note for Meld fashionista Jamie-Maree Shipton.
The day three opener was a presentation of modern femininity. Strong women strutted the catwalk in the modern backdrop of the Art Gallery of NSW, with sleek, firmly pulled back pony tails, they seemed all business.
Then the details become apparent; the cornrow-esque braid weaving its way down the centre of the model’s hair, the tips of their pony tails dipped in pink and blue, and the dark plum colour stained on their lips. The show went from being a predictable display of Ho’s usually refined elegance to something sharp, modern but still sophisticated and chic.
The palette began simply, looks of black, white, navy and grey as well as a black and white stripe print were splashed on flowing dresses with thigh-high splits, clean cut tailored silk suits and the surprise editions of bathers. Cut-out details and halter necks were carried throughout the collection giving it that modern, sporty vibe.
The gold arms cuffs stacked on the model’s arms, and large smooth gold rings adorning every finger on their hand also brought that tough edge to the soft lines and emphasised the strong hair styles. The later editions of a bright pink, wedgewood print and hexagon print in pink and blue also added a little something to the refined palette. As did the foil fabric used here and there.
Overall I was happily surprised that I enjoyed the show so much and actually found the majority of the looks more than wearable.
German botanist Ernst Haeckel was one of the inspirations behind McCall’s MBFWA collection and this was more than apparent in the organic silhouettes, ornate prints and oceanic and powder hues.
The delicate laser cut out details and print used on several of the pieces resembled the small shapes found on dragonfly wings. The cap and puffy sleeve shapes are similar to that of a beetle’s shell and insect’s wings. The bird print placed on flowing dresses and a matching silk suit also wove the idea of nature as inspiration for fashion. Every look was young and flirty and the high necks and racer backs kept it fresh.
The inclusion of a high sheen fabric also played on the idea of iridescent insect wings but also brought the garments from day to night. The dishevelled hair and dewy skin of the models also added an air of ethereal elegance alongside the light ruffles and flowing silks that made the whole collection feel light weight.
Serpant & The swan
The Serpent & The Swan showcase took the form of a standing presentation. Instead of being seated along the sides of a catwalk guests were welcomed into a dark and moody space to walk around and view the models.
This was the brand’s fashion week debut, and although choosing to do a presentation instead of catwalk did show some point of difference it was a little predictable, and dare I say it, underwhelming.
Leather harnesses, the product the brand is noted for, were briefly displayed although there weren’t as many or varied as you’d expect. Insect and botanical prints were said to be a main focus of the collection although I didn’t really see it. Besides the models’ hands and feet being encased in perspex boxes – as if they were trapped insects – I found these influences were lost.
The colour palette was dark, and there were a few lace pieces that were nice. The models’ hair which were constructed into these woven basket looks at the back were interesting, although it was only really visible on one model as the rest were only facing forward. Maybe next time.
Michael Lo Sordo
This collection brought my spirits way back up and ended my day three on a massive high. The much anticipated show was packed to almost over capacity and everyone was expecting big things.
And it was delivered. Slow walking models, moving to slow moody music, glided down the bleak runway in flat slip-on shoes; it all felt quite masculine. I was already loving it. The androgyny was further enhanced by the models’ low messy pony tails and neutral make-up, except the small blue triangles near the corners of their eyes.
The clothes of course also enhanced the androgyny. Masculine tailoring, hems of shorts and skirts falling just past knee length, structured shirts and almost shapeless silhouettes. Each look had that ‘man style’ vibe. The clean lines and small details; mesh, frills/ruffles, brought some femininity. As did the hints of midfriff.
I felt every look was relevant and I’d happily wear any piece. The minimal palette also helped construct the air of minimal masculinity and andryogny. My look of fashion week was in this show, slouch tailored pants and a white strapless crop top. He is just too good.